More Than the Basics

By Deborah R. Huso
Progressive Farmer Contributing Editor

Georgia cattleman Will Harris doesn't call himself an environmentalist despite the fact he is one of the largest producers of organic, grass-fed meat in the country. When he decided to go organic nearly two decades ago, it wasn't with the anticipation of saving the world or even making more money.

"The farm was viable the way it was," he remarked. "I made the changes for personal preferences more than anything else. I hoped what I did would be pleasing to my children, so they would want to come back to the farm."

In addition, Harris became increasingly interested in animal welfare. "In the industrial model, animal welfare had come to mean I didn't purposely inflict pain and suffering on the animal," he explained. "I began to realize that for really good animal welfare, you create an atmosphere where animals can exhibit their instinctive behavior."

Around age 40, as Harris was assuming full management of the family farm, he decided to convert to organic practices. "I hoped it would provide more income," he said, "but it did not for a long time."

COVENTIONAL PATH

The young Harris followed his father's model when he first returned to the farm after obtaining a degree in animal science from the University of Georgia. Harris' father raised only cattle and took advantage of the best of science, using commercial fertilizer and antibiotics to keep pastures green and animals healthy.

"When I was a conventional cattleman, I didn't know you could lose money in the cow business," Harris chuckled. He recalled his dad could wean 90 calves out of 100 exposed cows and had zero debt. "Under that kind of model, you can make money in the cow business even when prices are cheap."

Harris quickly learned transitioning to an organic operation was going to be expensive. He started losing money right away, in fact. He borrowed money to build $7 million worth of buildings that included two USDA-inspected processing plants, one for red meat and one for poultry. He quit using artificial growth hormones and confined feedings, and gave up pesticides and chemical fertilizers. Harris realized he was going to have to raise other types of livestock in addition to cattle.

DIVERSIFIED OPERATION

Today, White Oak Pastures is home to a veritable menagerie. The farm raises five red meat species, including pork, lamb, rabbit, veal and beef. His beloved herd of Angus-based cattle is descended from his great-grandfather's herd. He typically keeps 700 cows and heifers, and processes calves at 22 months.

As many as 5,000 turkeys, 8,000 laying hens and hundreds of other animals, including doe rabbits, sows, ducks, geese, guineas, ewes and nanny goats, make their home on the farm. Organic vegetables add another layer of diversity to the operation's product offerings.

White Oak's slaughterhouses process 138 head of cattle per week, 5,000 chickens and 50 sheep and goats from the home farm and surrounding producers. The farm also features a cannery and a pet food factory.

"All of this increased my cost of production dramatically," Harris said, noting for the first time in his life he was spending more than he made. "Fortunately, we caught traction before we got into serious trouble."

How? "Well," he quipped with seriousness in his lilting southern accent, "You put your trap where the rat's at."

Harris found local customers by rubbing shoulders with Slow Food Atlanta, a chapter of Slow Food USA. The national organization promotes and advocates for local food and "food cultures," according to its website, www.slowfoodusa.org.

With support from a market demanding his product, and willing to pay for it, Harris forged ahead. He finished the red meat processing plant in 2006 and a poultry plant in 2011. Harris also convinced 15 area producers to go organic and sell their product to him. These contractors produce beef according to White Oak Pastures' protocols. When the livestock is market ready, Harris purchases the animals, processes the meat and sells it under the White Oak Pastures label.

The Georgia cattleman sells to national retailers, such as Whole Foods and Publix, regional chain Earth Fare, state-based food distributors, such as Destiny Organics and Buckhead Beef, and Atlanta-area fine restaurants. Harris operates a store, restaurant and website (www.whiteoakpastures.com) to sell direct from the farm, too.

He now employs nearly 90 people, making him one of the largest private employers in Early and Clay counties.

GOOD MOVE

Harris ultimately made the right move, though the journey to get there wasn't easy. Thanks to his efforts, White Oak Pastures is regionally renowned. Tourists stop by the southeast Georgia farm to nibble on organic beef burgers.

Harris himself won Georgia's Small Business Person of the Year for 2011 and was recognized as the Georgia Conservancy's Distinguished Conservationist of 2012.

His family farm is 150 years old, and the model of farming he ultimately "re-adopted" is the same one his grandfather and great-grandfather used.

Harris fulfilled his goal of family returning to the farm. Two of his three daughters and one son-in-law now work alongside him. The farm generates about $20 million in gross revenue each year, most of which is invested back into the operation to help pay down debt on the processing facilities and other improvements. "I enjoy what I'm doing today way more than when I was just shipping cows to somebody else's feedlot," Harris remarked.

STRONG FINANCIALS

But he's quick to caution other farmers about taking the kind of leap of faith that he has. "You've got to be committed and passionate," he said, "and have strong hands financially." Harris acknowledged he never could have made the transition from conventional to organic producer had the family farm not already been paid for by previous generations.

"There are not a lot of efforts like ours run by a guy who was part of the 'other' system," Harris said. "Most of the folks running operations like ours came to it from somewhere else."

And of that environmentalist tag some may be tempted to give him, he added, "I'm not an evangelist. I don't care how anybody else farms. I've got a certain way I want to do it and a clientele that appreciates it."

(BAS)

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